High above the villages of Nuits-Saint-Georges and Vosne-Romanée, where vineyards give way to forest, are the “Hautes-Côtes,” or “upper slopes” of Burgundy’s Côte de Nuits. The higher altitudes and resultant cooler temperatures produce wines famously described as “full of fire, uplifting and light”—a phrase I’ll co-opt here in the service of Philippe Gavignet’s “Clos de l’Hermitage.” The creep of climate change has Burgundy vignerons (and Burgundy drinkers) looking anew at the Hautes-Côtes, and wines like this 2019 are a direct result:

Gavignet, one of the great artisans of Nuits-Saint-Georges and the owner of some of the greatest old-vine parcels in the village, planted his Clos de l’Hermitage recently, and it’s starting to pay dividends. Measuring less than an acre and climbing to 400 meters in elevation, this little gem of a site has the same exposition and marl/limestone soils as the band of Premier Cru parcels downslope, but it’s a touch cooler and windier, producing a Pinot Noir full of invigorating tension and soaring perfume. Lovers of classically styled Burgundy should jump all over this one, because it not only blossoms with time open but is poised to be a fantastic short-term ager. “Uplifting” pretty much nails it, but I’ll add “transfixing” and “energizing” for good measure.

France, Burgundy, Hautes-Côtes de Nuits AOC
100% Pinot Noir

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