2018 Pavillon de Taillefer St Emilion Grand Cru
The meticulously-made wines of Philippe and Catherine Cohen are truly unlike any other in Bordeaux. Catherine was winemaker for La Fleur-Pétrus before she and her husband eventually purchased this tiny (4.8ha) Saint-Émilion estate.
The wines burst with layers of vigorous, concentrated fruit in shades of indigo and violet. There's a Pomerol-like silkiness, too, but with a firm core of calcareous minerality that is utterly Saint-Emilion.
Yields are very low, and viticulture is 100% organic. Instead sulfuring, the Cohens use a grape seed derivative to stabilize the wines, a technique learned from Guillaume Selosse when he staged in the their cellars.
Perhaps even more impressive, the Cohens ferment their red wines in individual 225L barriques — a costly and arduous process.
France, Bordeaux, Saint-Émilion
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Bottles are in perfect condition.