2017 Olivier Giroux Clos des Rocs Pouilly Loche
You may be wondering why you haven’t previously heard about Pouilly-Loché, for which you can hardly be blamed. The entire appellation covers a mere 32 hectares, of which nearly 30% belongs to Clos des Rocs. To our knowledge, no estate-bottled wine from the appellation has appeared in the U.S. in the recent past, despite the fact that the AOC dates back to 1940 and enjoys a strong reputation locally in the Maconnais.
The soils are characterized by iron-rich clay and limestone, often with up to 30cm of dense limestone pebble dispersion at the surface. The resulting wines are leaner than their counterparts in neighboring Pouilly Fuisse and carry a hint of earth, yet they are quite rich in mineral, with enough fruit density to properly support the robust structural elements. Each wine is compelling and exciting to a degree that we have made a significant commitment to the domaine, and will be importing over the coming months each of the seven cuvées produced at the domaine.
The estate counts 8.6 hectares of vines across seven parcels, principally in Pouilly-Loché, with plots in Macon-Loché and Pouilly-Fuissé rounding out the holdings. No chemical products are used in the vineyard and Olivier is committed to organic processes from start to finish, though he has chosen not to pursue certification. All grapes are manually harvested before a long pressing, followed by alcoholic fermentation using only indigenous yeasts; the élévage varies by cuvée and is detailed in the specific descriptions of each of the wines.
The Pouilly-Loché Clos des Rocs Monopole 2017, comes from the main asset of the domaine, an enclosed 3 hectare parcel located adjacent to the winery. The vines are 70 years old with an eastern exposure and it produces the most complete wine of the domaine and now serves as the essential reference point for this very special place.
Right out of the gate, this 2017 flashes clear aromas of apple blossom and nectar circled by a beam of minty lemon. As it begins to unwind, notes of limestone terroir give way to sweeping hints of white truffle and crème brulée. The mineral driven core persists significantly in the wine’s polished texture and astounding depth, making its own compelling case for premier cru recognition. Although it’s drinking beautifully right now and will pair perfectly with a wide array of Chardonnay appropriate fare, this is also one you can tuck away. Im really glad that I re-tasted this wine the other day. This is an exceptional Chardonnay that offers tremendous value for its category.
France, Burgundy, Pouilly-Loché
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Bottles are in perfect condition.